Day 21 - Van Horn to Fort Davis, TX

Today was challenging. We were all very happy to arrive in Fort Davis, where we have a layover day tomorrow. We rode 90 hard miles and climbed approximately 4600 feet.
One reason the ride was hard was a later start than prior days. Yesterday afternoon we crossed into the Central time zone. So breakfast was at 7 am and the first group of riders departed around 7:30 when it was light enough to ride. (We don't have the bright headlights to ride safely in the dark.) Due to in-camp flats, the last riders departed at 9.
A disadvantage of camping on rural areas is roosters. They start crowing around 5 am, well before it's time to get up. I'm thinking of rooster stew for dinner.
Today is Easter Sunday. Rhodri colored eggs yesterday (see photo), and calls himself "the egg man".
Riding early in the morning is the nicest time of day. It's not hot yet, you feel strong, and the low sunlight enhances mountain and desert colors. Great shadows too (see photo).
We alternated between frontage road and Interstate 10 shoulder for the first 37 miles. The frontage was chip seal. The shoulder was a marginally better surface. A cross-wind came up mid-morning and truck traffic was heavy (often two or three semis behind each other in the right lane). So we were buffeted by winds, making it hard to navigate through retread debris on the shoulder. The speed limit is 80 (photo) so the trucks are flying.
After 37 miles we exited to route 118 and chip seal for the rest of the day. It wears you down, with hands, arms and shoulders tired from the constant vibration. My derrière complained too. The rough surface causes you to ride less efficiently, perhaps 3-5 mph slower than concrete.
Most of the day we passed through desert with cholla cactus, greasewood and yucca. Pretty rock hills at times (see photo).
Our highest elevation point was the access road to the University of Texas' McDonald Observatory (see photo of one building). The hardest part was the five miles up to the access road. It was curvy with 5% grades, and up and down with the sun beating down. I was in all the gears; we were constantly shifting.
Mitch parked the van before the five mile climb, and the salty chips and cold water were much appreciated. Hydration was a real concern today, since the only source of water was a store 20 miles from the start. I packed two water bottles, two bottles of Gatorade, and filled the Camelbak before leaving camp (see photo). Without the store and the van, it would all have been consumed. The only shade was interstate overpasses.
After the observatory access road we had 12 miles of downhill into Fort Davis. Flynn and Rhodri hit 46 mph. Felt good to make up time!
We are comfortably ensconced in the Stone Village Tourist Camp, with beds and a swimming pool (see photo of Rhodri
soaking). As Jerry rolled in, Randall, the manager, handed him a cold bottle of local Lobo beer (see photo). It doesn't get any better!
Linda's husband, Peter, and friends David and Carol were here to greet Linda when she rolled in (see photo with Ken).
Carol, Andre and Jerry treated us to tuna oriental (Carol's mother's recipe) and a killer salad for dinner. Andre insisted on serving Bob G. Dessert was somores. The chefs deserve special thanks for cooking after a long, hard ride (see photos).
After dinner we had a wood fire. Flynn surprised Bob G with champagne, to toast Bob's retirement (after today he goes off Boeing's payroll). See photos of Bob celebrating and pouring for Carol with Flynn in the background. We all wish Bob well in his post-ride life!
Bruce