Day 22 - Fort Davis layover day

What a great layover day! We got to sleep in this morning, and walked next door to the upscale grocery / deli for breakfast. Since we're in Texas, the strong coffee is "West Texas Wildfire". Andre was in heaven because the store carried the New York Times. In the photo enjoying fresh-baked pastries, coffee and other goodies are (left to right) Mitch, Rhodri, Bruce, Jerry, Bob Plant and Flynn.
At 10:30 seven of us rode 12 miles in the van to McDonald Observatory. I highly recommend stopping if you are in the area. We had an excellent two-hour guided tour of two telescopes, the 107" diameter Harlan J. Smith and the 433" Hobby-Eberly. In the photos below you will see Rhodri and Flynn maneuvering the 107" telescope using a control. Pictured in front of the 107" scope are (in front) Andre, Terry and Julianne and (in back) Flynn, Bruce, Rhodri and Carol. The dome of the 433" scope rolls on inflatable tubes. We wondered if they get flats too?
When we returned to Fort Davis, Terry and I walked to the Fort Davis National Historic Site, where a real fort was in use from 1854 to 1891 (see photos). The fort first protected would-be gold miners en route to California, then suppressed Apache raiders. After the Civil War, Buffalo Soldiers (black soldiers) were stationed here.
The street signs in town are fun to read: Blackfoot, Bullsnake, Coachwhip, Copperhead and Rattlesnake, for example. Might be hard to sell a house on Rattlesnake!
The town of Fort Davis was also a stop on the overland stage route, which roughly paralleled the Oregon Trail and Pony Express. The town has a museum (see photo) which unfortunately was closed.
This evening we met up with an Adventure Cycling group doing a week loop ride in the Big Bend area of Texas. We mingled over appetizers (see photos of Rhodri and Flynn, and Bob Plant, Andre and Ken). Our host Randall grilled kebabs (photo with Jerry), and his brother served up beans, beef brisket and wonderful seasoned chicken (photo serving Bob G with Andre in background).
After dinner Julianne, Mitch, Isabel and her assistant conducted a map meeting on tomorrow's route (see photo). Both groups will ride the same route and share a campsite tomorrow night.
Bruce

Day 21 - Van Horn to Fort Davis, TX

Today was challenging. We were all very happy to arrive in Fort Davis, where we have a layover day tomorrow. We rode 90 hard miles and climbed approximately 4600 feet.
One reason the ride was hard was a later start than prior days. Yesterday afternoon we crossed into the Central time zone. So breakfast was at 7 am and the first group of riders departed around 7:30 when it was light enough to ride. (We don't have the bright headlights to ride safely in the dark.) Due to in-camp flats, the last riders departed at 9.
A disadvantage of camping on rural areas is roosters. They start crowing around 5 am, well before it's time to get up. I'm thinking of rooster stew for dinner.
Today is Easter Sunday. Rhodri colored eggs yesterday (see photo), and calls himself "the egg man".
Riding early in the morning is the nicest time of day. It's not hot yet, you feel strong, and the low sunlight enhances mountain and desert colors. Great shadows too (see photo).
We alternated between frontage road and Interstate 10 shoulder for the first 37 miles. The frontage was chip seal. The shoulder was a marginally better surface. A cross-wind came up mid-morning and truck traffic was heavy (often two or three semis behind each other in the right lane). So we were buffeted by winds, making it hard to navigate through retread debris on the shoulder. The speed limit is 80 (photo) so the trucks are flying.
After 37 miles we exited to route 118 and chip seal for the rest of the day. It wears you down, with hands, arms and shoulders tired from the constant vibration. My derrière complained too. The rough surface causes you to ride less efficiently, perhaps 3-5 mph slower than concrete.
Most of the day we passed through desert with cholla cactus, greasewood and yucca. Pretty rock hills at times (see photo).
Our highest elevation point was the access road to the University of Texas' McDonald Observatory (see photo of one building). The hardest part was the five miles up to the access road. It was curvy with 5% grades, and up and down with the sun beating down. I was in all the gears; we were constantly shifting.
Mitch parked the van before the five mile climb, and the salty chips and cold water were much appreciated. Hydration was a real concern today, since the only source of water was a store 20 miles from the start. I packed two water bottles, two bottles of Gatorade, and filled the Camelbak before leaving camp (see photo). Without the store and the van, it would all have been consumed. The only shade was interstate overpasses.
After the observatory access road we had 12 miles of downhill into Fort Davis. Flynn and Rhodri hit 46 mph. Felt good to make up time!
We are comfortably ensconced in the Stone Village Tourist Camp, with beds and a swimming pool (see photo of Rhodri
soaking). As Jerry rolled in, Randall, the manager, handed him a cold bottle of local Lobo beer (see photo). It doesn't get any better!
Linda's husband, Peter, and friends David and Carol were here to greet Linda when she rolled in (see photo with Ken).
Carol, Andre and Jerry treated us to tuna oriental (Carol's mother's recipe) and a killer salad for dinner. Andre insisted on serving Bob G. Dessert was somores. The chefs deserve special thanks for cooking after a long, hard ride (see photos).
After dinner we had a wood fire. Flynn surprised Bob G with champagne, to toast Bob's retirement (after today he goes off Boeing's payroll). See photos of Bob celebrating and pouring for Carol with Flynn in the background. We all wish Bob well in his post-ride life!
Bruce

Day 20 - Fort Hancock to Van Horn, TX

Last night the sky was clear and temps were mild. So I biked a half mile to the border with Mexico, and took sunset photos of an irrigation canal and the border fence.
At dusk I realized my Camelbak (water backpack) was missing. This was serious, since we have 70 - 90 mile days with minimal water stops coming up. I searched the church, outside the building, and even walked a mile into town to the convenience store where we stopped in the afternoon. No luck. Other riders searched in vain. In the morning I noticed a strange squishy lump under the tent floor. Of course it was the Camelbak! Mitch complimented me on improvising a waterbed.
Today we rode 75 miles and climbed between 1400 - 1800 feet to a maximum elevation of 4800 feet. The ride started cool so we wore jackets. After 10 miles we shed. It was overcast for several hours, then the sun was out in full force. A light tailwind was appreciated!
After 20 miles we stopped for a snack, before riding the shoulder of Interstate 10. Andre's Law #1 is you stop to eat every 20 miles. Andre's Law #2 is 150 = your age + daily mileage. Corollary #1 is 1000 feet climbed = 1 mile. See photo of Carol, Linda, Bob G, Andre and Terry (Jerry and Bob Pedersen were out of the picture).
Riding the interstates is not as dangerous as it sounds. We ride in the shoulder which is as wide as a lane. Many semi drivers pull into the left lane to minimize the wind. The challenge is thin metal wires from retread tires that disintegrate, and sit in the shoulder forever. (Only the big tire pieces are picked up.) The wires cause flats and can be hard to find and remove from a bike tire.
Speaking of flats ... this morning Mitch picked five goatheads out of his tires. Jerry flatted today, this time his front tire. While Bob G and others were off their bikes helping Jerry, one of Bob G's tires popped. Go figure! We are averaging 1 - 2 flats a day. It's not if but when.
One advantage of riding the interstate shoulder is the more gradual angle of ascent when climbing. But the interstate closed a lot of small town businesses (see photo of abandoned motel).
When we exited the interstate, we rode on the infamous Texas chip seal, gravel set in asphalt (see photo). Chip seal can be a bumpy ride, and can limit your speed when rough.
After 70 miles we reached the town of Van Horn. It's basically one very wide, long and straight street with every budget motel chain represented (see photo). Not a coffee shop to be had. I counted myself lucky to find a Wendy's and enjoyed a cold milkshake.
We are in another KOA campground tonight, fighting for turf with hulking mega-RVs bigger than my house. Instead of standard childrens' playground equipment, the park has a row of used saddles on a railing (see photo). The showers are hot and the laundry is drying on a picnic table, so life is good.
For dinner Bob and Ken made great Wisconson-style chili (includes macaroni) and salad. Marie's blue cheese dressing too - my fave. And appropriately, pecan pie for dessert (see photos).
After dinner Mitch put on costume ears (see photo) and had a pop quiz on the section 2 map from Phoenix to El Paso. Prizes included bars of locally-made soap and dried salsa powder (which will likely show up in a dinner soon).
Bruce

Day 19 - El Paso to Fort Hancock, TX

Last night we slept in a real bed for the first time on the ride. It took a while to adjust, then I was out cold. Real towels too! Pure luxury. Flynn said he has stayed at the New York Waldorf-Astoria and this was more satisfying for him.
Since we're in Texas, the waffle maker at the breakfast bar turned out waffles in the shape of the state (see photo). Gotta love the mentality here.
Our ride to Fort Hancock took less than 4.5 hours, with an elevation gain of 15 to 60 feet. Once we were clear of east El Paso traffic, we rolled past more pecan groves and fields of cotton, sugar beets, tomatoes, chili peppers, beans and onions. Route 76 has a wide shoulder in places and is smooth asphalt, so we cruised. Jerry and Carol encountered the first of many tumbleweeds blowing across the road (see photo).
Gasoline is cheap here (see photo) - $3.36 versus over $4 a gallon in Chicago today. Also, in one town we saw a kiosk that sold drinking water (from a distance we hoped it had fancy coffees) (see photo).
We stopped for a beverage in Fabens. Bob G, Andre and Jerry chatted up the restaurant owner in Spanish (see photo with them, the owner and Carol). I enjoyed horchada, a Mexican milk drink. Most store signs are in Spanish, and the dialogs we hear are all Spanish.
After 20 miles we stopped on the side of the road for a lunch break (see photo Andre took of Jerry, Bruce, Carol and Bob G). A hungry hawk circled overhead. We looked at Carol, the lightest of the group. She said there will be lots of feathers if it tries!
We are staying in a church in the tiny town of Fort Hancock. Jerry scouted out the town and reported that a Good Friday procession was in process for the local Catholic Church (see photos). The walk around town simulated the 12 stations of the cross. At each station a reading was done in both English and Spanish. Bob Plant joined the procession and attended prayers in the church.
After the procession, Bob Pedersen, Julie, Jerry and I stopped for ice cream at the local hardware / food / farm supply store. See the photo for all store offerings including game cocks and horseshoes.
Bob G and Bob Pedersen lucked out cooking tonight. A real kitchen! (see photo).
Bob Pedersen, Andre and I went to the nearby post office and got flat-rate shipping boxes to mail home our cold weather clothing (see photo). I kept one pair of tights and long-fingered gloves, and sent back the remaining cold weather gear. It felt so good to know no more freezing breakfasts!
Bob G and Bob Pedersen served up salad, macaroni and cheese topped with tasty brats, and cheesecake for dessert. Even better, we ate on tables in the church, instead of balancing our plate on a knee. See photo of Terry, Julie and Bruce in line. A bonus is dinner was early since we got here so soon. Nice to relax while it's still light out.
Bruce