Joyce runs the library at a marine research facility affiliated with the University of Southern Mississippi. The facility is right on the Gulf Coast. When Joyce first walked into the library post-Katrina, she found a water snake and turtles, swept in from the bayou behind the facility. Fortunately only materials on the bottom bookshelves were water- and mud-damaged. Materials on upper shelves were intact. The library is back in business.
Last night we slept on the deck of two pavilions at the campground. The cacophony of nighttime sounds was different. One tree frog sounded like a car with a bad wheel bearing. Periodically a bull frog chimed in, with its deep bass. Crickets provided an almost-constant background.
Today started gray and overcast, so we were resigned to another day of riding in rain. But ... miraculously the skies cleared mid-morning, and we rode in sunshine! Soon after leaving Vancleve, we passed a field with two longhorns (see photo). Reminded us of Texas. In Hurley we spotted an honest-to-goodness coffee shop (see photo of Jerry and Carol). An oasis in the desert of Valero service station / convenience stores!
Suitably fortified, we crossed the state line into "Sweet Home Alabama". See photo of Terry, Bruce, Bob Plant and Jerry taken by Carol. Right after the photo was taken, Flynn, Rhodri and Bob Pedersen rode by.
Our next sight was a two-story building where the second story was a trailer. Hmm ... how did they get the trailer up there??
The last few days we have ridden past well-maintained farms and ranches, with large grounds and lush pastures. The next photo shows one. Just past its entrance were five ladies watching migrating birds on a lake in the ranch. They let us view willets, Caspian terns and white pelicans through their powerful spotting scopes.
We rode on south to Bayou La Batre and the Gulf Coast. This is the shrimp fishing capital (see photos of shrimp boats). Signs are in English and Vietnamese, since there is a large Vietnamese presence. Mitch also noticed this when shopping for groceries. Similar climate (hot and humid) and skill set (fishing)?
After a lunch stop, Bob Plant, Carol and I made a nine-mile detour to visit Bellingrath Gardens. Once a weekend family retreat, the Gardens is now run by a trust. It comprises 65 acres including a rose garden of 2,000 plants representing 75 varieties; a great lawn bordered with 4,000 plants; a camellia parterre; a bayou boardwalk; and a gazebo garden. The former garage holds over 100 porcelain birds and flowers by Edward Boehm (see photos), the largest public display of his works. See www.bellingrath.org for more details on the Gardens; they are first-class. Carol's blog post contains great flower shots.
We continued riding south. With good-surfaced flat roads and a tailwind, we cruised effortlessly in the 20's. After a long approach road, we rode up and over the Gordon Persons Bridge to Dauphin Island. The view from the bridge was great; a tow boat passed under as we rode (see photo).
My total mileage for the day was 76 miles including the nine off-route miles to Bellingrath Gardens. We are holed up in several suites in the Gulf Breeze Motel. This was heaven for Flynn, who has been dying for a real kitchen to cook dinner (with Bob Pedersen). They served up brats, carrots roasted with honey and cinnamon, corn and green salad. (The menu was set expecting cooking in the rain.) Really good!
Tomorrow we ride a ferry to Fort Morgan, and will cross into Florida. Wow! When we left San Diego 45 days ago, Florida seemed as far away as the moon.
Bruce
No comments:
Post a Comment