This morning was blue sky and moderate temps and humidity. We are grateful. I've been here in June when both are in the 90s - no treat.
This morning Bob Plant and I took a 15 minute walk to St. Louis Cemetery #1. The cemetery is a well-known New Orleans landmark. It dates back to the 1700s, and has only above-ground burials due to high water tables and flooding. (The cemetery also appears in the movie, "Easy Rider".) A photo shows the "oven vaults", named for their arched shape, which make efficient use of the land. Some tombs have offerings in front (see photo). We saw Marie Laveau's tomb; she was a well-known eighteenth-century voodoo priestess, whose tomb is marked with X's by contemporary followers.
We walked over to and down Canal Street and its streetcars. I grew up in Pittsburgh, which has streetcars, so it was fun to see them again.
Then we walked along the Mississippi River levee past the "Natchez" stern-wheel steamboat by Jackson Square. The boat's engines date back to 1925; the boat itself was built in 1975. The paddlewheel is made of white oak and steel. A 32-whistle steam-powered calliope played as we walked by. Carol and Flynn took a two-hour river ride on the boat. They enjoyed the narration (e.g., where the Battle of 1812 was fought) and sights (e.g., raw sugar being poured from a boat at a Domino Sugar plant). The boat photos below were taken by Flynn.
(Incidentally, he also played some guitar last night while checking out music venues. Sorry I missed hearing him!)
Jerry and Julianne went the farthest today, biking about 12 miles to and around the Ninth Ward. This area was badly affected by Hurricane Katrina. Perhaps half the houses are not inhabited today and are empty, burned out or flooded. Some still have spray-painted house numbers and other search-and-rescue information (see photos for examples). Jerry said some houses are colorfully painted in blues, oranges, reds and yellow.
He got a haircut today; the barber (a 40-year New Orleans resident) said the city is better off today because those who left were a burden on the city. Interesting to compare this view with my sister-in-law, Kathy's. She works for a school in Houston, and did a great deal of social work for Katrina survivors' children, some of whom had only the clothes on their backs when they fled to family or friends in Houston.
A symbol of Katrina's impact is musician Fats Domino's piano, shown as it was found, on its side on his home. (Fats survived the storm.)
On 1972 my wife and I first visited the French Quarter on spring break while students. We stayed at a small hotel called the Corn Palace, named for the cornstalk pattern on its cast-iron fence. The fence and hotel are still there (see photos).
Right off Jackson Square are The Cabildo and The Presbytere, now run as museums by the state. These were worth a stop for their Katrina, Mardi Gras, and Louisiana and New Orleans history exhibits. In a photo, Bob Plant is comparing a dugout pirogue to a North Woods canoe. My favorite exhibit was on Louisiana musicians. They included blues men Lonnie Brooks and Lightning Slim, swamp rocker Dale Hawkins ("Good Golly Miss Molly"), Hank Williams performing on the Louisiana Hayride radio show, and Little Richard's local recording of "Tutti Frutti". Also many zydeco, Cajun and other artists and record label owners whose names I didn't know. As we walked out of the museum, a Dixieland band was playing (see photo) - very appropriate!
I asked several riders what they thought of New Orleans. Bob Pedersen said "the people were friendly, the food was good, and it was a nice break from riding". Rhodri has visited many cities in Europe and North America, and likes the city because it has "its own unique feel". Terry has been in the city on business many times, and enjoys the food and people watching. Jerry had a similar view, calling it a city with a unique soul. Carol really liked the melting pot of cultures (the "gumbo"), and definitely liked the food! Julianne liked "the change of energy and feeling of festivity". Mitch was intrigued by the amount of restoration done in the French Quarter and elsewhere, and was pleased to see the city coming back. Bob Plant liked everything about the city. He enjoyed learning about the history and culture, and would like to go back. Flynn also wants to go back for another helping. He liked the food, people and especially the free-spirited music scene.
A P.S. to our visit is a plaque around the corner from our hotel. It explains the source of "Dixie".
We're back in Poplarville, nibbling appetizers while Rhodri and Ken to fix dinner. Rhodri bought smoky paprika in town, so dinner will be special!
The next photo shows Linda being served hot coffee and fresh donuts in her tent by her "attendants" Ken and Bob G. So she got room service!
We were asked by someone to bring beads from Bourbon Street back to Ken (see photo). You'll have to ask him for details!
Bruce
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